#11 – Label your parts clearly as they come off the engine – it doesn’t go well when extra are left over…
When I still had a phenomenal memory, I got used to not labeling. Even years later, I could still assemble stuff I took apart.
Now that the memory is no longer as reliable, I forget to label stuff way too often.
Start the good habits young!!!
No fancy break in regimens needed. Read the ring break in procedure from the ring manufacturer. That is your procedure. Follow it. It should give recs based on the type of honing employed. If the engine doesn’t fail in the first 50 miles it’s assembled and will last. If it fails early something was off and break in wouldn’t have saved it.
In reply to RobMason :
I use ziplock bags and label them, then I try to stack them in a bin with the first fasteners that come out put in the bin in the back and work my way forward. Fabric label tags for the components that are larger.
As far as shop cleanliness goes my next build will have a clear plastic tent or a HF cheap greenhouse “clean room” set up in my shop.
The Cam manufacturer will generally have a break in procedure – ie.. 2500rpm for 20min for a solid lifter car. Rings are best broken in while driving with frequent acceleration and deceleration under load. Chrome top rings can take up to 1000 miles to break in – during that time, compression will continue to get better (generally good enough after 500 or so).
Check with the real experts on how to break in your particular engine – Facebook is not necessarily a good place to get info 🙂